So you find yourself purchasing your first locomotive.
Don't just buy the first one you see.
Here are some general tips to keep in mind.
First, don't think twice about taking the locomotive out of the box.
This is essential.
Make sure all of the wheels are metal.
This doesn't necessarily mean that each wheel actually picks up electricity, but it's a start.
If the car doesn't come equipped with metal wheels, don't buy it.
It is god to have a pair of driving wheels to have rubber tyre strips to help traction on inclines though.
Turn each of these metal wheels with your fingers.
Wheels that turn easily are not gear driven.
If they are difficult to turn, they're gear-driven, and that's what you want! There should be at least 2 pairs of driving wheels.
If you're in a hobby shop (which I recommend), ask to have it run tested.
The store probably has a track set up already.
If you test run the car and it needs to be push started, don't buy it.
The clerk may try to tell you the locomotive failed because the track is dirty.
Don't take his word for it.
Ask him to wipe the track with a rag and try again.
If the locomotive still needs a push start, don't buy that particular car.
Locomotives can cost anything from $100 - $500 and this money makes it a very important purchase.
If you know exactly the locomotive that you want write it down, maker, motor details, model number, wheels layout, colour and anything else you can think of.
Don't be shy about buying your first locomotive and visit every model shop you can for the exact model and get to know it.
Check it out against others with a similar specification and test run you choice as many times as you can.
If you are still happy with your choice, go do your shopping.
Purchasing rolling stock requires the same sort of exacting care even though you're looking for a few different features.
Remember it has to run on the same track for the same amount of time and still do everything right.
Here we look at some of the features that will save you money and time and frustration.
For cars other than your locomotive, it doesn't matter whether the wheels are metal or plastic, as long as they meet several other criteria.
You see, these wheels aren't connecting to the electric output.
Even so, metal should be the first choice in most cases.
The wheels on your rolling stock -- whether it's an open top hopper or a gondola -- should be free from any wobbling.
They should also turn freely.
This is easy enough to test.
Simply turn the car upside down and spin the wheels.
After you physically let go of the wheels, they should continue to spin for a while.
(This is the complete opposite of what you look for in a locomotive!) The best wheels are those connected to metal axles.
And they should be a specific distance from each other on the same axle.
If the wheels are placed too close together, they'll naturally fall between the rails.
If the wheels are spaced too far apart, they won't sit properly on the rail either.
Regardless of the car -- locomotive or rolling stock -- buy short.
It's a mantra most railroaders live by.
Longer equipment may give you trouble as it rounds the curves in your track.
The overhang of the ends of the longer equipment may cause derailments.
Some top of the range long trailers have an articulated set of wheels (usually 2 sets).
This overcomes most of the long carriage problems but make sure it clears your scenery.
It would be easy to get carried away and write a book about buying your first railroad modelling equipment but it has already been done.
So if you are just starting out it is best to read about the success of others and enjoy doing it right first time.