Oak is a beautiful wood.
Depending on the final look you want to achieve with it there are different finishes that can be applied, both in terms of colours and top coats.
Some people like a natural colour whereas other prefer to add a stain or ammonia fume their furniture.
Whatever you do, the preparation of the wood is very important because it affects the quality of the finish.
The first stage is the preparation sanding which can be done with power tools.
You don't want to use a paper of more than #120 grit.
Once this is completed you can wipe the piece with a damp cloth, leave for 30 minutes and then do the final sanding.
This should be done by hand and with a paper no finer than #180 grit.
If you over sand it will make it difficult for stain to penetrate the timber.
End grains may need more sanding than along the grain - pay attention to this to keep the colour absorption of the timber constant.
The timber should now be smooth and free from oils, dirt and dust.
If adding a stain, it depends what type of oak you have as to how well it will take it.
White oak will absorb more stain than red oak therefore you will need more stain for it.
Quarter sawn oak will also absorb more stain than timber cut along the grain.
You will need to mix the stain in the tin before applying and also check how long you have to apply it.
Oil based stains give you longer than water based ones.
Use a lint free cloth and rub in generous amounts in the direction of the grain, wiping of the excess.
Try and get the coverage as even as possible.
The more stain you add, the darker the effect.
Ammonia fuming is a traditional process for darkening and enriching the colour of oak.
It changes the chemistry of the pigments in the timber by oxidising the tannins.
Sapwood doesn't have much tannin so the process won't work with this type of wood and it doesn't work so well on red oak either because it can produce a green tinge.
It is ideal for white oak.
Fuming only affects exposed wood but it will also affect metal so keep it away from metal tools and remove metal finishings on the furniture.
You will need to place the furniture outside in a tent and expose it to the fumes of ammonia.
You can use domestic cleaning ammonia, but avoid anhydrous ammonia.
After about 30 minutes you will see a colour change.
For the best effects, leave it for 48 hours.
Once the furniture is the desired colour you can add the top coat.
The final look that you want will usually either be a wax finish or a lacquered (varnished) finish.
The wax or varnish is applied over any colouring.
The benefit of having a wax finish is that the oak can mellow naturally.
It will need to be regularly waxed though to keep the furniture in good condition.
The benefits of having a lacquer finish are that the moisture in the timber will be sealed in and a high-gloss finish can be achieved.
That helps to protect the wood from stains.
It will however show up finger marks and can be easily scratched.
When scratched, it will need to be sanded back and re-laquered.
Polyurethane can be used in the same way but it is not advisable because it is susceptible to damage from ultra-violet light exposure which can crack the finish leaving white marks that are impossible to remove.
This means that furniture with this finish has to be kept out of sunlight which is not exactly practical in most situations.
Beeswax and Danish oil produce what is known as an unsealed wood finish, so chemical cleaners should not be used.
Whatever colour and top coat you go for, make sure it is the right choice for your situation.