- 1). Evaluate the spot where you want to build the pond. It should not receive drain off from the rest of the yard or be in a permanently boggy location. If you plan on growing water lilies or other water plants, the location should receive a minimum of six hours of sunlight per day.
- 2). Outline the shape of the pond with a garden hose until it has contours that please you and fits the rest of the landscape. A formal landscape looks best with a formal, geometrically shaped pond. A naturalized pond fits in an informal landscape.
- 3). Fill a plastic zip-locked bag with flour. Cut a hole in the corner so the flour flows out at a steady pace. Use the flour to mark where the garden hose is, then remove the hose.
- 4). Dig the outline with a shovel to a depth of 2 to 4 feet plus another 8 inches for the gravel and concrete. The pond should be at least 4 feet deep if you plan to keep koi fish. Water lilies require a depth of 3 feet. Shallower ponds get warmer in the summer months so keep that in mind.
- 5). Adjust the pond sides so the tops are level with each other. If one side is higher than the other, the water will look like it's lower on one side than the other. For a large pond, lay a carpenter's level on the perimeter of the pond. If the pond is less than 8 feet across, use a scrap piece of wood that is 8 feet long. Lay it from one side across the pond to the other side. Place the carpenter's level on the board. It should remain level all the way across the board.
- 6). Pour 4 inches of gravel on the bottom of the pond. Lay flexible wire mesh on top of the gravel.
- 7). Build concrete forms for the sides of the pond by nailing together 1/4-inch plywood to two-by-fours. Nail the two pieces of plywood across the top so they're spaced with a 4- to 6-inch gap in the middle. You will fill the gap with concrete. When the concrete has set, you will remove the forms, leaving sturdy concrete walls. The tops of the forms should be level all the way around and be from 1 to 2 inches above ground level.
- 8). Pour the concrete evenly over the bottom of the pond until it's from 4 to 6 inches deep and then into the forms. Tamp down the concrete into the forms. Smooth the bottom of the pond by tamping it with a two by four laid flat. This will probably take two people, one holding each end of the wood board.
- 9). Let the concrete cure. Exactly how long depends on the humidity, air temperature and thickness of the concrete.
- 10
Fill the pond with water and then drain it using a pond pump. Scrub down the walls and floor of the pond with a mixture of 50 percent vinegar and 50 percent water. Rinse with a hose. Fill the pond half way with water and drain again. Completely fill the pond with water. This procedure removes the excess lime from the cement, which is toxic to fish. When the water pH remains at 8.0 for three consecutive days, the pond is safe.
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