- 1). Switch off the propane supply using the master control valve at the tank if you decide not to maintain both fuel supplies. Disconnect the propane line from the water heater and cap it using a proprietary fitting and gas-rated sealing tape. Turn the gas supply back on and use a proprietary leak detecting fluid, available from most home improvement warehouses, to check the capping procedure was successful.
- 2). Run an electricity supply to the site of the water heater, using a cable gauge and terminal-end outlet as specified by the conversion kit manufacturer. Differently sized kits require different specifications, but the wire should be outdoor rated. You should install a dedicated circuit breaker in the supply, and usual practice suggests this should be within eye-line of the appliance; if it is below the level of the appliance, where water could splash it, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)-type breaker should be installed.
- 3). Place a free-standing pan beneath the water heater to catch any drips. Attach a length of garden hose to the drain cock, open the drain cock and allow the appliance to drain completely. Using a properly sized wrench, turn the drain cock assembly counterclockwise until it is removed from its captive female fitting in the body of the water heater.
- 4). Wrap sealing tape rated for hot water around the threads at the base of the electrical heating probe, properly called a pencil element, and insert it through the drain plug. Put the supplied converter nut in place between the probe's male thread and the appliance's female thread if necessary. Use a wrench to tighten it one half turn past finger tight.
- 5). Pull sufficient insulation away from the upper part of the appliance and attach the thermostat using the specific double-sided tape provided as part of your kit. Connect the wires to the pencil element and to the connection harness by fitting the spade connectors in place, observing the clearly marked color-coding. The kit comes with all terminal spade connectors attached. Screw down the harness locking collar until it is finger tight. Set the thermostatic control to the temperature you desire; heat settings are typically between 90 and 150 degrees. Replace the insulation.
- 6). Reinstate the water supply. Check the threads at the base of the pencil element for leaks, and if any water is visible use a wrench to tighten connection in one-eighth turn increments until the leaks stops. Plug the new installation into the new power supply.
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